05 AT 2023-05-29 MO – conquer last unfinished section in Maine

To the ferry, across Kennebec, ride along Enchanted dirt roads, failed attempt to be a kayaker.

05:24 – wake up even before the fellow hiker

05:59 – there is a weak signal. A bit colder. Sign shows 3.7 mi to Kennebec River.

06:10 Weather App shows I am in Moscow, ME with a gorgeous sunny outlook +9 +20°C.

06:38 Departing the last shelter. My hiker friend is already gone

I decided to ford the river by rolling my pants up and removing the socks.  Later, I learn that SOBO hiker used the flaky beaver dumb to cross the water barrier without making his feet wet.

06:50 view on waterfalls

07:02 crossing the connecting road.  I used this road 4 years ago to arrive here on the bike on May 23, 2019.

07:41 the trail is full of strange twists and turns and one of the rivers can be crossed using 3 logs – one for your feet, and 2 used as a railing.



06:50 I had to cross this stream with my pants polled up.  The fellow hiked found a beaver dumb that I used 4 years ago. 07:41 “Don’t touch the middle rail!”.  You walk on the middle log, and two other logs serve as a railing – simple and a bit scary.


08:35 trail goes along the small river high above the water level, and I can see far down there is a fisherman standing on a boulder surrounded by crystal clear shallow water.

08:45 I can see the Kennebec River from above.  Now I need to go down to the water. The sign shows 35.4 miles to route 27 where I started the hike.  My GPS shows 38 mi with some little deviations that I took. Out of all places, here the ferry schedule is still from last year.  On the beach I can see my NOBO companion from the shelter.  We will be crossing together.

At 09:05 we can see a canoe approaching and we are helping our captain to load our gear. I am even helping to paddle on the front.  We navigate a diagonal arc to counter the river flow.  The whole river-cross takes only a few minutes ($3 tips).  On the ground there is a large crew (5-7 people) preparing to load their food, instruments, and other supplies into a spare canoe.  They will be moving boulders and improving the trail over the next several days on the other side of the river.

~09:30 ODO 245.4 We quickly finish the last 0.2 mi to the car and depart for Forks, ME

09:43 -ODO 253.0 +14.5°C – We arrive in Forks, ME. We arrived at Berry’s General Store.  Here we part with Carson (trail name Needana).

~10:00 Instead of eating in Forks with a fork, I am moving on without a civilized breakfast. In the car I had oranges, coconut water and sparkling water. To go to Flagstaff Lake, I need to choose a route to use.  Either 55 mi wild north route on tiny dirt roads or longer (66 mi) but predictable south route around all the wildernesses. I proceed north to turn left on Lower Enchanted Rd. that is a gravel road that goes west parallel to Dead River.

10:58 – ODO 270.1 +16°C – I am approaching an all-important junction point marked as Dead River Whitewater Put-In after about 15 miles into wilderness over a slow but maintained gravel road. 

11:13 Here I discover that –01– the only bridge across Dead River is not for cars (it is for ATVs and snowmobiles), –02–the entrance ramp is too steep (your car will scratch the bottom) and –03–it is locked on both sides by chain and by gate.  But you can totally pass on your bike.

11:28 The only bridge in the area is blocked off and entrance angle is too steep for the vehicles 11:29 This is a very exciting area to explore on the the water, but . . . 13:49  . . . it is too shallow for the kayak and stream is to aggressive to paddle against the current


11:50 my preparation are disturbing local butterflies – black and yellow jackets.

12:19 Made all the preparation, pumped up the kayak and started paddling up the river. Unsuccessful. The current is too swift, and the river is too shallow.  The only option is to go down, but how would I return?

13:09 After about 50 min of trying various options return back on the shore.  Start gathering my things back into the car.

13:45 depart from as Dead River Whitewater Put-In.

14:08 – moose sighting on the road. At first, he runs on the road and with the first opportunity tuns into the brush looking all dazed and startled.

11:50 Eastern Tiger Swallowtail Butterfly 14:08 giant moose on the loose in Maine



15:32 – ODO 332.5 +22.5°C – Subway in Skowhegan, ME – $11.87. Very good and timely stop.  Large toasted Black Forest sub goes down very quickly.  Ready for more food adventures.

19:34 – ODO 539.2 +16°C – arrive back home one day earlier. 12 min traffic delay in NH. Ready to eat and to sleep.

(Visited 56 times, 1 visits today)

Navigate through the List

  1. 00 AT 2023-05 Preparation for the trip (2023/05/24)
  2. 01 AT 2023-05-25 TH - hitchhike for 5H to start the hike (2023/05/25)
  3. 02 AT 2023-05-26 FR - jumping over 4K Bigelow peaks (2023/05/26)
  4. 03 AT 2023-05-27 SA - gloves and camera miracles (2023/05/27)
  5. 04 AT 2023-05-28 SU - hike, swim, enjoy solitude (2023/05/28)
  6. 05 AT 2023-05-29 MO - conquer last unfinished section in Maine (2023/05/29)
  7. 06 AT 2023-05 Summary (2023/05/30)

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